Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Angkor What?

We finally dragged ourselves reluctantly away from the easy beaches in Sihanouk Ville and booked a bus to Siem Reap (9 hours).

The bus stopped in Phnom Penh for a few hours which was wonderful since I thought I was not going to get to see it at all on account of using up all my time in Sihanoukville. We stopped right next to the central market which I think is one of the main attraction, and if it is not, it should be.

The market in Kashgar, Western China, was supposed to be the "best in the world"but this one completely blew it to shreds. It was inside a huge old yellow colonial looking building which was octagonal and so the market started inside and spilled out beyond the building in a giant circular see of umbrellas. The building itself was very unique and made a very interesting an out of the ordinary staging for a market. I bought two Khemer scarves for 1 dollar.. I'm contemplating buying more since they are so cool - good stocking suffers.

Another wonderful feature of Cambodia is the bread. Because of the French colonialism, they can make baguettes that are on par with anything I tasted in France. These are served with all meals and many of the street vendors will whip up a delicious cheese-cucumber-and-sauerkraut-ish-substance baguette for a dollar. Oh, other random reflection, Cambodia looks like Nicaragua, kind of the same jungle-ness.

Got to Siem Reap, found a place to stay after a bit of searching. The town is cool, but its clear the main attraction is really Angkor Wat and the town just plays backup.

Kyle and Verber have to share a tiny bed. This is their interpretation of how kyle sleeps at night and how horrible its going to be.

Angkor Wat / Temples of Angkor

Tuk Tuk fun
More Tuk Tuk fun

We started our Angkor day at 8 am, and headed straight for Angkor Wat. Usually this would be done on the the third day, but since I was only going to be here for one we did it in the first day so that I could see it. Its actually really hard to express how cool it was, but it was kind of like being on the set of Jungle Book, Tomb Raider and Indiana Jones all at once, and then realizing it wasn't a movie set but was all real. Angkor Wat is really just one in a sea of temples, but as it is the one on all of the postcards it is what people think of as Angkor. In reality there are more than 60 temples scattered around the city of Siem Reap, some big, some small, some cool, some not - Angkor Wat is just the most famous. It was built as a tomb for Vishnu, and has some of the most well preserved wall carvings inside, the most famous depicting the Churning of the Sea of Milk - a legendary event when Vishnu and the Naga churned the sea to produce the elixir of imortality.
Entrance to Angkor Wat
The boys getting excited to be there
Typical tourist picture - I think every person who visits takes this exact same picture

Inside Angkor Wat
Inside Angkor Wat

After Angkor Wat we went to Angkor Thom, the old walled city of Angkor, which has a hand full of other temples inside. In Angkor tradition, stone was fit only for the gods, so all of the houses of ordinary people were constructed of wood and have long since disintegrated in the tropical rain. Kings were considered god-kings, so the structures they lived in and gave speeches from still remain as well as the temples for the gods.

Gate into Angkor Thom

My favorite temple was Bayon which we visited first in Angkor Thom. It was very uncrowded and many times I was the only person in the section of the temple that I was in. You are allowed to walk around uninhibited in the ruins which is really cool, but this is sure to change soon - there are rumors that the entire area will close to the public within the next ten years.
Inside Bayon

After this we visited a few other temples in Thom, a notable one being Baphuon, which was taken apart and documented painstakingly by French scientists after WWII for reconstruction, but unfortunately their documents were lost in the chaos of the Khemer Rouge revolution, and now an ambitions project is underway to restore the temple to its original glory without the documents, which is a daunting task.


Jill trying to climb up the hard way

Leaving Angkor Thom, we went to one of the other most famous temples in the area Ta Prohm, or the temple where Tomb Raider was filmed. This is probably the second most photographed temple after Angkor Wat on account of the huge trees growing their roots out and over the temple walls.




The Family

After this long day of tramping through dusty hot jungle we went to a magnificent restaurant called dead fish, which had four or five different levels scattered through the warehouse which you reached by ladder, kind of like a tree house. Your food and drink was brought up on a pulley system, and the tables were made of old tires with a slab of glass on top. They also had crocodiles you could feed and free wireless Internet. It was awesome. Afterward our tuk tuk driver Dara took up to a Cambodian club for a few drinks, which was interesting because it was the polar opposite of a US club experience - all of the men were getting crazy on the dance floor while the girls just sat and watched or awkwardly moved back and forth. It was very strange.

Sign over the crocodile pit


The red bull have amphetamines in it. no seriously I'm not kidding. They are deadly. Dexpanthonol 5 mg. I drank three one day and couldn't sleep all night

Cambodia!! - Shinoukville

This pic is actually from BKK, just got on the wrong blog post. This guy was passed out at a table the next morning on Koh San, the waiters are trying to figure out what to do with him.
From Nov 23rd-27th

Sihanouk ville is supposed to be Thailand in the 70s, before it was discovered, and it does certainly measure up to that somewhat. You get there from the border crossing at Koh Kong.

Sihanoukville is in the south west corner of the map

Serendipity Beach at night, we spent most of our time at the bar with the dolphin

It is in far southern Cambodia, and it would be really easy to make this either your last stop before jumping off to Vietnam or your first stop in Cambodia before Phnom Penh. There are really only a few major beaches, and we stayed on the most populated / also supposed to be the nicest of these: Serendipity beach - a very nice stretch of white sand completely lined with restaurants and bars, all of which have big circular lounge chairs and tables on the beach so there is a very chilled out atmosphere. Opportunities for happy pizzas abound, and there is even one advertised on the official city map of the area, which struck me as very strange considering Cambodia's harsh drug laws.

sunset at Serendipity beach

Unfortunately, although this is a kind of paradise, it is also overrun with children selling you stuff and trying to steal your stuff as well. Within the first 30 minutes I was on the beach my wallet was stolen out of my bad which was under my chair, WHILE I WAS SITTING THERE. apparently don't close your eyes even for a second.

The second night we were there we did a booze cruise which was mindt. There was a really awesome mixed crowd of all nationalities and ages, about 40 people in all. There was a really awesome 60 year old Aussie guy named Allen who had a joint permanently attached to his hand and was a great character. There was also a French girl Josie and I talked to for at least ten minutes before her boyfriend told us she didn't speak English... no idea how that worked.. we must have been too busy drinking to noticed she wasn't replying.

Cliff jumping.... German dude who was definitely on something a little stronger than Clang beer.

Booze Cruise!!

We started out cliff jumping, at which juncture Verber managed to disobey all instructions and get out of the boat the wrong way resulting in him lodging a few sea urchin spines in his foot, which he is still complaining about. Then we moved on and had a beach bbq and after went on to Bamboo island, which is a really cool secluded island about an hour boat ride from Serendipity. There is only one bungalow hotel on the island so if you really wanted to chill out this is where you should go. I slipped on the boat around this time and peeled pack part of my big toe nail, resulting in excruciating pain and lots of blood. I asked our resident walking pharmacy, verber, for painkillers, which he told me were not very strong, so I took four. I realized immediately afterwards that if someone who regularly takes morphine tells you something isn't strong you shouldn't believe them - I was completely out of it for the next 12 hours at least, and still felt pretty shitty they next day as well.

Beach BBQ

Deserted beach at Bamboo Island

More Bamboo Island, this is the side with the bungalows.

We went back to bamboo island the next day because it had been so cool the day before and just chilled. That is really the only things we did so doesn't really merit anymore writing about it. Some pics from the bus ride to Siem Reap:



Next Post: Phnom Penh and Siem Reap

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

One night in Bangkok and the worlds your oyster

One night in Bangkok.... pearls ain't freee...

So in our less-than-24-hours-in-bangkok we:

1) Walked around a lot.. which was good because before I had not gotten off of Koh San = very bad traveling skills

Street food in Bangkok, view from the skytrain

name of a boat on the river

Best last name ever.. esp for being an author
View of Koh San from the roof of our hotel
View of BKK from our roof

Shrine along the road, these are everywhere in Thailand, every house has one in the front yard

BKK river

2) Saw a Nile monitor


Night of the 22nd

Tristan got a giant fish tattooed on his back

I got my eyebrow pierced again - parents are going to love that one, I bet they thought they were through that stage

We witnessed the seedy underbelly of Thailand / SE Asia at a strip club that made me so sick I had to leave. It was all fat white 50 year old men and the girls all wore numbers for easier identification and purchasing.. made me completely disgusted so I left and made new friends on Koh San instead. We were supposed to be going to the strip club just for a little while for fun and then moving on to a club, but a few of the sleezier guys from Tahoe were more serious about it and actually bought strippers...served them right later when I saw that they couldn't get into the hotel with them and had to go elsewhere.

Missed our bus at 8 am - we all went to bed so late there was no way we were waking up for our bus at 8 am - good thing we hadn't bought tickets. I think all of us knew in the back of our minds we weren't going to make it on the bus. I personally was walking still walking around Koh San at 5 am with my new brit friends trying to find a tattoo parlor that was open so they could get tattoos.

We ended up being able to catch a later bus to the border, and it was the first time I have walked across a border, correct me if I am wrong parents.

Next post: Sihanouk Ville or the most awesome place ever

Koh Tao: Diving, Hitmen, and Choppers

We left Koh Phagnan behind and moved the party to Koh Tao, a smaller island about 3 hours north of Koh Phagnan. All of the travelers we had been talking to were saying that Koh tao was the "real"Thailand. Its much smaller than Koh Samui, which tends to be more upmarket, and Koh Phagnan, which tends to be more party, and is supposed to have a much more chilled out vibe than either. It is known for its diving, so the crowd generally flocks here for the cheap certification courses.

The boat ride there was crazy packed and we ended up sitting on top of the bags outside, which ended up being the best seat since we escaped the puking downstairs and the spray along the side of the boat from the waves.

On the boat we made friends with a big group of kids who were teachers in Korea and are taking vacation since their contract expired, and a few travelers who worked in Tahoe... altogether I think it was the most Americans I have hung out with while traveling / even seen while out here.

Got to Koh Tao, which was very chilled out compared to Koh Phagnan, less party and more happy pizzas if you know what I mean. My main complaint was that although the island was very small it was exceedingly difficult to get around because the roads were all washed out - something im sure they fix in Dec when all of the tourists show up. As a result we spent most of our time in the main town area, which although fun, got very boring after 5 days.

The main beach - I can't remember the name, but its where most people, including us, stay.

Awesome sign that is in most restaurants in Thailand

Cool clouds from the beach.. the weather wasn't that perfect

Full Moon: insanely cute puppy that hung out around the ganja shack that was across from our bungalow

We did rent ATVs one day and go for an adventure, which turned out to be much more of an adventure than we were expecting to have because of the deplorable road conditions. I luckily picked the one guy who rides motorcycles so I was relatively safe compared to the others. Verber almost killed himself by going over a cliff and his ATV had to be retrieved from the bushes several times by Owen, our resident ATV expert / farm boy hick who is 28 and does not have email. All of this was worth it because we got to go to two awesome beaches on the island: X and Freedom Beach. Freedom Beach was my favorite and if I ever came back to Koh Tao I would do it right and stay there for two or three nights instead of spending all of my time in the main town.
Cool salt water "pool"we found when we hiked across the island a few days before

ATV crew. From Left: me, Emely (Swedish), Melody (Korea teachers, brit), Tristan (Korea techers, Canuck, Sarah (brit), Tinkerbell (Tahoe), Owen (Tahoe), can't remember name, Verber (US), Sanna (sweden).
Rescuing Verber's ATV from over the cliff. Without Owen, dude in red hat, we would have been screwed, he fixed the chains when they popped, McGyvered ATVs out of ditches, and rode them up the really rough bits when no one else could get them up.
ATV-ing. We swam out to the island in the background and the crazies did some cliff jumping

Freedom beach...mm.. sublime beauty

More freedom beach

Hitmen!

We also unfortunately had a lot of not so fun drama on Koh Tao involving a hitman from bangkok who was on the run from the police.

Apparently the guys were all at choppers (our usual spot) and saw a Thai guy dragging a western girl out by her hair. They went to go stop him as I would hope any decent guy would do, which caused lots of yelling but no punched were thrown. They ended up chasing the guy down the street to the end where he grabbed a butcher knife from a food stand and threatened them with it then ran off - We all assumed it was over after this.

The next day Verber was checking his email by himself in a cafe and the guy stormed in and punched him in the nose then ran away. There was blood everywhere and Verber was in a state of complete shock and shit ton of pain. I ended up taking him to the hospital (which reads: Dengue checkup, malaria checkup, Pregnancy check, HIV check, over the door - gotta love Thailand) at midnight while both of us were drunk so that he could try and get painkillers, although im dubious of whether he needed them since he was so drunk already.
After a lot of questioning, we discovered that everyone knew him but no one would turn him in and everyone said the police were worthless. T he owner of choppers told us that he was a hitman that was wanted by the police in Bangkok, that was why he was in Koh Tao and not to mess with him. Overall it was a really scary / messed up couple of days, especially since the boys hadn't done anything but try and help the girl. We all breathed a huge sigh of relief when we got on the boat back to BKK.

On a lighter note we had a really fun last night and hung out at a little beach hut / bar were a group of Argentine guys were playing. We all danced and sang until the wee hours of the morning and I got to practice my abysmal Spanish a bit, which after all the Spanish guys figured out I could at least understand them I became their pet and they made me take copious jager bombs with them.

Next post: one night in Bangkok and the worlds your oyster, the bars are temples but the pearls aren't free